As discussed in an earlier blog post, it’s not just a trend but a necessity to use sustainable fabrics for our fashion brands. Our industry is one of the largest polluters, contributing to water waste, carbon emissions, and landfill overload. This guide will equip you to make informed choices about the sustainable fabrics to use in your designs.

What Makes a Fabric Sustainable?

As designers, we need to understand what makes a fabric sustainable. Sustainable fabrics prioritize eco-friendly practices throughout their lifecycle. This includes using fewer resources like water and energy, minimizing chemical use, and being biodegradable. Additionally, ethical labour practices ensure fair treatment for workers throughout the supply chain.

1. Eco-Friendly Production Processes

   The production process of sustainable fabrics involves methods that produce a lower impact on our environment. This includes using natural resources efficiently, reducing chemical use, and minimizing waste. For instance, organic farming methods for cotton avoid synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, which can contaminate water supplies and harm biodiversity.
   
   

2. Biodegradability

   A significant aspect of a fabric's sustainability is its ability to biodegrade. Biodegradable fabrics break down naturally over time, reducing the amount of waste that ends up in landfills. Natural fibres like organic cotton, linen, and hemp are highly biodegradable, decomposing much faster than synthetic counterparts like polyester.
   
   

3. Reduced Water and Energy Consumption

   Sustainable fabrics often require less water and energy to produce. Conventional cotton farming, for example, is water-intensive, consuming vast amounts of water for irrigation. In contrast, organic cotton and fabrics like linen and hemp are typically grown with less water, making them more sustainable choices. Additionally, manufacturing processes that use less energy contribute to lower carbon emissions, further enhancing a fabric's sustainability.
   
   

4. Ethical Labor Practices

   Sustainability is not just about the environment; it also encompasses social responsibility. Ethical labor practices ensure that the people involved in producing fabrics work in safe conditions and receive fair wages. Certifications like Fair Trade and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) indicate that a fabric has been produced under ethical conditions, supporting workers' rights and well-being.
   
   

5. Certifications and Standards

   Several certifications and standards help consumers identify sustainable fabrics. GOTS, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, and Cradle to Cradle Certified are some of the most recognized certifications. These standards ensure that fabrics are produced in environmentally friendly ways and meet specific criteria for sustainability. They also provide transparency, allowing consumers to make informed choices.
   
   

6. Lifecycle Assessment

   A comprehensive assessment of a fabric's lifecycle from production to disposal is part of determining its sustainability. This assessment considers the environmental impact at each stage, including raw material extraction, manufacturing, transportation, use, and end-of-life disposal. Sustainable fabrics have a minimal negative impact throughout their lifecycle, contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry.

Types of Sustainable Fabrics

We as responsible fashion brands have to understand the variety of fabrics to make more eco-friendly choices. Each type of sustainable fabric has unique properties, benefits, and potential applications. Here, we will explore plant-based fabrics, regenerative plant-based fabrics, recycled fabrics, and animal-based fabrics.

Plant-Based Fabrics

Plant-based fabrics are derived from natural sources. Here are some of the most prominent examples:

Organic Cotton is grown without the use of fertilizers, synthetic pesticides, and or genetically modified organisms. This reduces environmental pollution and also promotes soil health and biodiversity. Organic cotton farming uses natural farming methods like crop rotation and composting, which enhance soil fertility and reduce water usage.

Organic cotton is soft, breathable, and hypoallergenic. It supports healthier ecosystems and reduces the risk of water contamination. It can be more expensive to produce due to lower crop yields and higher labor costs. Additionally, organic cotton may require more water than other sustainable alternatives like linen or hemp.

Linen is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It requires very little water and pesticides to grow. Linen is one of the oldest known textiles, valued for its durability and breathability. The fibers are extracted through a process called “retting,” which can be done using water or natural dew.

Linen is highly versatile and used in clothing, home textiles, and industrial applications. It is valued for its strength, moisture-wicking properties, and ability to keep cool in warm climates.

Hemp is a fast-growing plant that thrives without pesticides and requires little water. Hemp plants grow quickly and densely. It outcompetes weeds, reducing the need for herbicides. They also improve soil health by replenishing nutrients.

Hemp fabric is used in clothing, accessories, and home textiles. It is strong, durable, and becomes softer with each wash. 

Regenerative Plant-Based Fabrics

These fabrics are derived from renewable resources and often involve innovative processes to minimize environmental impact.

Bamboo

Bamboo fabric can be produced mechanically or chemically, with significant differences in their environmental footprints.

• • Mechanically Processed: This method involves crushing the bamboo plant and using natural enzymes to break down the fibers, which are then spun into yarn. It is eco-friendly but more labor-intensive and costly.
  • Chemically Processed: This involves dissolving bamboo cellulose in a chemical solution to produce viscose or rayon. While more efficient, it can be environmentally harmful if not managed properly.

Bamboo fabric is soft and breathable. It also known for its natural antibacterial properties. It is used in clothing, bedding, and hygiene products. 

Tencel™ (Lyocell)

Tencel, also known as Lyocell, is a regenerated cellulose fiber made from wood pulp, primarily sourced from eucalyptus, beech, and spruce trees. The production involves dissolving wood pulp in a non-toxic solvent. Nearly all the solvent is recovered and reused. This minimizes environmental impact.

Tencel is soft, breathable, and has excellent moisture-wicking properties. It is also biodegradable and compostable under the right conditions.

Lenzing™ EcoVero™

Lenzing EcoVero is a type of sustainable viscose made from certified renewable wood sources. EcoVero production uses significantly less water and energy compared to conventional viscose. It is also produced in a closed-loop system, reducing emissions and waste.

EcoVero is soft, lightweight, and has a luxurious drape. 

Recycled Fabrics

Recycled fabrics are made from post-consumer or post-industrial waste, reducing the need for virgin materials and minimizing waste.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is made from recycled plastic bottles and other plastic waste. The production involves cleaning and shredding plastic waste into small flakes, which are then melted and spun into new fibers. 

What’s the difference with virgin polyester then? Recycled polyester has a smaller carbon footprint and reduces reliance on fossil fuels compared to virgin polyester. 

Recycled Cotton

Recycled cotton is made from post-industrial cotton waste, such as fabric scraps, and/or post-consumer waste. The recycling process involves sorting, cleaning, and mechanically breaking down the cotton into fibers, which are then spun into new yarn. 

Recycled cotton fibers are shorter and weaker than virgin cotton, often requiring blending with other fibers for strength. It is commonly used in denim, insulation, and automotive products.

Animal-Based Fabrics

Sustainable animal-based fabrics are produced with consideration for animal welfare and environmental impact.

Organic Wool

Organic wool comes from sheep raised on organic farms that adhere to strict animal welfare and environmental standards. Organic wool farming avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, and ensures humane treatment of sheep. The sheep graze on organic pastures, promoting soil health and biodiversity.

Organic wool is naturally insulating, breathable, and flame-resistant. Proper care involves gentle washing and air drying to maintain its quality.

Peace Silk (Ahimsa Silk)

Peace Silk, also known as Ahimsa Silk, is produced without killing the silkworms.

The silkworms are allowed to complete their lifecycle. The empty cocoons are used to produce the peace silk. 

Peace Silk is used in luxury fashion, particularly in scarves, dresses, and accessories. It has a unique texture and sheen, offering a cruelty-free alternative to conventional silk.

Bio-Based and Lab-Grown Materials

Mycelium Leather

Mycelium leather is made from the root structure of mushrooms. It is grown on agricultural waste, forming a dense, leather-like material. The process is fast, scalable, and requires minimal resources. It also avoids the environmental impact associated with traditional leather tanning.

Mycelium leather is durable, flexible, and can be customized in texture and color.

Lab-Grown Leather

Lab-grown leather is created by culturing animal cells to produce collagen, which is then assembled into a leather-like material. This technology eliminates the need for raising and slaughtering animals, reducing greenhouse gas emissions and land use. It also avoids harmful chemicals used in conventional leather tanning.

Lab-grown leather is still in its early stages but has the potential to revolutionize the leather industry with sustainable, ethical alternatives.

Emerging Eco-Friendly Fibers

Piñatex (Pineapple Leather)

Piñatex is made from the fibers of pineapple leaves, a byproduct of the pineapple harvest. The leaves are collected, stripped of their fibers, and processed into a non-woven fabric. Piñatex is is durable, breathable, and biodegradable.

Orange Fiber

Orange Fiber is made from citrus byproducts. Orange peels are processed to extract cellulose, which is then spun into yarn. Orange Fiber has a silky texture and can be blended with other fabrics. 

How to Choose Sustainable Fabrics

Choosing sustainable fabrics involves considering several factors, including environmental impact, certifications, and personal needs. Here are some key points to guide consumers and businesses in making informed decisions.

Certifications and Standards

Certifications provide a reliable way to identify sustainable fabrics. They ensure that the fabrics meet specific environmental, social, and ethical standards.

• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
  GOTS certification covers the entire textile supply chain, from harvesting raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing. It ensures that the textiles are free from harmful chemicals and that fair labor practices are upheld.
• OEKO-TEX Standard 100
  This certification tests for harmful substances in textiles. It ensures that the final product is free from chemicals that could be harmful to human health.
• Fair Trade Certified
  Fair Trade certification focuses on ethical labor practices and fair wages for workers. It also promotes sustainable farming practices.
• Cradle-to-Cradle Certified
  This certification evaluates products based on environmental and social performance across 5 categories: water stewardship, material reutilization, material health, social fairness, and renewable energy + carbon management, social fairness.

The fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment and society, but it also has the power to drive positive change. Sustainable fabrics are a key component of this transformation, offering a path toward a more responsible and equitable industry. 

As we continue to innovate and adopt sustainable practices, the fashion industry can become a force for good, promoting environmental stewardship and social justice. The journey toward sustainability is ongoing. But, with commitment and more informed choices, we can achieve a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry for generations to come.

Ready to launch a successful fashion brand with a focus on sustainability? At Spec to Sample, we offer end-to-end support from design to production, sourcing top-quality sustainable fabrics and ensuring efficient, ethical manufacturing. Our team provides personalized consultations, expert product development, and seamless factory connections to bring your vision to life. Click the button for a quick consultation.